There is a certain amount of confusion - even in fashion - about cruise/resort collections.
Designed to give a preview of what’s hot in terms of new trends, cruise collections that were once considered quirky between season shows for wealthy vacationers, have recently risen in popularity and become much more relevant to the consumers of today. Now everyone and their diffusion line has a cruise collection. Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Marc Jacobs, and Ralph Lauren all offer full on cruise/resort ranges that rival their spring and fall shows. The reason for this is simple; the traditional seasonal schedule might have made sense before - when magazine editors needed half a year to digest, report, and print their coverage of each season. But technology - Facebook, video streaming, and blogs - has changed that forever. The new generation of fashion followers see collections the very moment that editors and buyers do and are increasingly demanding instant accessibility. As a result retailers and seasonal influences are getting all muddled. Of course, disrupted weather patterns in the wake of climate change also play a part in consumers’ struggle to dress appropriately while being restricted by the seasonal offerings from designers. The amount of choice in fashion has increased and as Topshop present alongside the likes of Burberry and bridge the gap between high street and designer, the industry is showing a desire to cater to all tastes and budgets. This is a positive step forward but consumers need designers to deliver practicality, seasonless pieces that provide style and flexibility in everyday life. With this in mind, a move to a more retail-oriented schedule seems almost inevitable. Harriet Quick, fashion features director of Vogue UK, said: "I think we'll start to see a move toward what you could call all-year clothing”.
Designers need to start focusing on a strong annual collection of trans-seasonal garments and suggest micro trends tailored to season through their cruise collections. But, whether this change will alter the allure of fashion and when shows should take place are questions that spark confusion and debate among the fashion elite. Marc Jacobs feel the shows are “timed just fine”, while others see Cruise as experimental and are keen to deliver to consumers as quickly as possible. Ralph Lauren had great success with "direct-to-consumer" shows, from which the fashion savvy could purchase items online; immediately after seeing the presentation. Tommy Hilfiger wants to move in another direction with two shows for every season - one for trade and one for consumers. “The small guys,” he said, “wouldn’t be able to afford it. But the larger, global brands would benefit.”
Best known for overtly political T-shirts and campaigning for ethical consumerism British designer Katherine Hamnett, believes that, “if the designers cannot agree and the industry does not adapt, it will not survive.” "The entire clothing industry is upside-down right now, and has been for some time," she said. "We have bikinis being sold in January, and fur coats being sold in August. It's bonkers".
Soon, a truly global, all-weather lifestyle could be within our reach. Cruise collections will give literal meaning to the phrase ‘fashion forward’ and are the key to designers showing responsive and innovative commitment to securing the future of the fashion industry.
P.S - This post and and 'Drag is the designer drug' are my contribution to UCA's Bespoke magazine. Check out the blog at http://bespokemaguca.blogspot.com/ and our facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/BespokeMagUCA
