If there is one concept that defines the twenties it is freedom and change, post WWI optimism took over every sphere of human activity and sparked incalculable alterations, most notably for women who began to find their voice and express themselves more than at any other time in history. During this decade women liberated their bodies from constricting clothing and moved into the modern era with a daring fashion revolution that signalled the start of the roaring ‘20’s, fragments of which exist in our wardrobes today.
The transition into this brave new fashion world was rather a slow one, reluctance to adopt the radical celebration of style and individuality was replaced by a passionate embrace of the innovative by 1925. Silhouettes became boyish and young as breasts were flattened with bandeau bras and corsets were abandoned in favour of loose and comfortable clothing. The garments that were now free of restriction possessed a distinct awareness of the body enabling subtle emphasise of the woman underneath. For the first time in centuries women showed leg lightly covered by silk substitute rayon stockings. These were visible as a result of raised hemlines to knee or calf length, skirts utilised slits and pleats to allow movement, particularly ideal for new dance styles such as the Charleston. Twenties fashion was undoubtedly bold and the term ‘flapper fashion’ became used to describe and represent women who had attitude and projected it as they adorned shorter skirts or even trousers, pouted ox blood lips, Eton cropped their hair and openly consumed alcohol.
The fashions and styles of this exhilarating decade were carefully carved out by a number of designers that were exceptionally popular at the time, Jean Patou, Elsa Schiaparelli and the late, great Coco Chanel. Chanel remains inspirational and admired, during the twenties she was the epitome of ‘flapper’ and promoted it with a passion. Her silhouettes were soft and fluid as she worked primarily with jersey fabric but without corsets or waist definition, the use of neutral tones such as cream, navy, black and sand created a simplicity that captured the palpable essence of the decade.
It was a time for ideas and image reinvention that enabled the forward looking woman to possess a new kind of style as they constructed a vision of themselves that entwined their personality with the fashions of the time. One of the most appealing looks of the twenties was the cloche hat over cropped hair, made incredibly popular by actress Louise Brooks, this accessory was initially a radical one however as the forehead became unfashionable the cloche hat became standard by the end of the decade. Footwear was completely revamped and the twenties brought exciting changes as shoes were finally acknowledged as a fashion accessory. Now that footwear was on display beneath shorter skirts or wrap over coats they began to appear as much more striking statement pieces that have influenced the styles of today particularly ankle straps and peep toe heels.
The twenties were certainly a decade of immense change in many ways, the explosion that came after the war was a joyous one affecting ideas and opinions the world over. Nothing was left untouched by the tangible mood which was one of liberation and positivity. The face of the fashion industry would never be the same again and we were now blessed with the works of some awe inspiring designers. The immense power, excitement and style that originated during the twenties was a profound historical event that paved the way for female independence and celebration of the body and individual identity.
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